HOW DO YOU CHOOSE A CARRIER OIL?
Part II: Properties, Uses & Shelf Life
Essential Oils are extremely concentrated and should always be diluted prior to use on the skin. This is commonly done by diluting them in a carrier oil (base oil). These oils are usually created from cold-pressing vegetable matter, seeds or nuts. Cold-pressing involves temperatures of 60C and below, so the desired chemical compounds are largely unaffected.
We recommend using high-quality carrier oils that have been cold-pressed so that they retain the desired vitamins and nutrients. Refined oils will have components that deteriorate quickly removed to give them a longer shelf-life however, this process will also take out some of those desired chemical components as well. All carrier oils are perishable, so it is important to store them away from light in a cool, dry place. Refrigeration is recommended to extend shelf life.
Below is a list of various carrier oils and their properties. For a quick reference guide of carrier oils based on conditions and skin types click here.
To see these oils in our online shop click here, for butters click here.
Click button below to download RDA's Complete Carrier Oil Guide (Part I & II combined).
*Note: INCI Nomenclature = International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients
QUICK LINKS
INCI Nomenclature: Glycine Soja (soybean) oil (and) Aloe Barbadensis leaf extract
Aloe Vera Oil is made by taking 1000 lbs of fresh Aloe Vera leaves, adding them to 110 gallons of soybean oil and then cooking the mixture until the leaves have broken down. The residue is then removed and the product is filtered. There is little oil in Aloe Vera such that the end product contains only 1% Aloe Vera oil, however, 15% of the end product has the benefits of Aloe Vera taken from the gel and wax of the plant. The Aloe Vera leaves used to produce our oil are 100% pure, natural and GMO free.
Aloe Vera is said to encourage skin rejuvenation, making it wonderful for healing wounds, treating sunburns and reducing scarring. It is also thought to help relieve arthritis pain. Aloe Vara Oil is a great addition in lip balms, creams, lotions, body butters, hair oil treatments and other skin care formulations. By using the oil, you can add the healing properties of Aloe Vera to your product without needing to worry about the bacterial and mold growth that can occur when using the pure gel. Use at 5-10% in formulations.
Shelf Life: 6 months - 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil
Apricot Kernel Oil is cold-pressed from 100% pure apricot kernels and then gently refined. It is a light, emollient oil high in oleic and linoleic acids. It is similar in feel and properties to sweet almond oil and is readily absorbed into the skin. It is recommended for mature, dry, sensitive skin and skin that is inflamed. Apricot Kernel Oil makes wonderful body oil for babies and children. It is especially beneficial in skin care and facial massage. Use in face and body creams, lotions, balms, lip care, hair care and soaps. It is great to blend with rich, thicker oils.
Shelf Life: 6 months to 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Argania spinosa (argan) nut oil
Argan Oil is hand-pressed from the nuts of the fruits of the Argan Tree (Argania spinosa) that grows only in Morocco. The Argan tree is known to live up to 200 years and is one of the rarest oils in the world. For centuries, Moroccans have used Argan oil in skin care and cooking. A very labour intensive process is required to shell and crush the fruits prior to pressing the oil. Our Argan Oil purchases support a women’s cooperative. Their sales of Argan Oil have transformed the economy of their village. Argan Oil possesses a remarkable ability to nourish, moisturize and improve skin elasticity. The oil is high in lipids including the omega-9 oleic acid and the omega-6 linoleic acid and it can be effective in treating dry skin, eczema, psoriasis, acne and sunburns. It is a good choice for inclusion in formulations for mature skin. It shows some sun protection properties against UVB and UVA rays. Its high polyphenol content makes it a strong anti-oxidant and adds to its stable shelf life. Argan Oil possesses anti-inflammatory
properties and is a highly beneficial addition to formulations intended to reduce swelling and ease muscular aches and pains. It is used for hair and scalp treatments and the restoration of brittle nails. Unroasted Argan Oil is used in cosmetic preparations and the roasted with its distinctive nutty aroma, is used in cooking.
Shelf Life: 1 - 2 years, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Arnica montana flower extract (and) Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil
Certified organic Arnica montana blossoms are gently macerated in organic olive oil. An anti-inflammatory and analgesic, it is used for the external treatment of injuries where the skin is not broken. It is excellent for injury trauma, bruising and rheumatic pain. Also for strained muscles, tendons, contusions, hemorrhages and swelling. Use full strength as soon as possible after injury for maximum effectiveness. Wonderful as a base for making healing ointments. May be customized with essential oils such as Helichrysum, Plai, Lavender, Marjoram, Rosemary, Black Pepper, German Chamomile or Spike Lavender.
Shelf Life: 9 months - 1 year with proper storage conditions (cool, out of direct sunlight), refrigeration recommended
Refined (yellow) Unrefined (green)
Persea Americana or gratissima INCI Nomenclature: Persea gratissima (avocado) oil
Avocado Oil is obtained from cold pressing the oily flesh (not seed). It is an intensive, rich, restorative and softening oil. Indicated for eczema, psoriasis and diaper rash. It is typically used as an additive to other base oils up to 30%. It is used for its softening, protective properties on the skin and promotes cell regeneration. It is excellent for mature, undernourished, dry, fragile skin with possible effects of sun damage. When used in massage blends it helps to increase hydration in the upper layers of the skin and improves elasticity. It has a high sterol (10%) content that has value for arthritic pain and possibly beneficial for post-menopausal skin prone to ageing. It uniquely contains more Vitamin D than eggs. It would be beneficial to include in preparations for dark skinned people living in low sun conditions. Mix into seaweed and clay powders to keep masks moist. The green unrefined Avocado Oil contains chlorophyll and is more therapeutically valuable. The refined oil has a milder odour making it more acceptable in cosmetic preparations.
Shelf Life: 9 months - 1 year, refrigeration highly recommended - especially for the unrefined oil
INCI Nomenclature: Orbignya oleifera (babassu) seed oil
Babassu butter/oil (soft-solid) is cold pressed from the kernels of the Babassu palm tree. The tree is native to Brazil and serves as an important economic resource. When the nuts ripen and fall to the ground, the kernels are gathered and cracked open by "babassu breakers" - women who crack open the nuts. The meat is then removed and pressed. Babassu Oil is similar to coconut oil in properties. It is high in lauric acid and melts at around 76 degrees F or upon contact with the skin. In skin care, Babassu Oil is used for its soothing, protective and emollient properties. Babassu penetrates quickly and does not leave a greasy after feel. It works well in body butters, massage butters, hair products, creams, lotions and lip balms. It is a great emollient for both dry and oily skin, gently moisturizing the skin without contributing to an oily sheen. It can be used in many skin care products such as soaps, creams, milks, lip balms and hair care products.
Shelf life: 6 months - 1 year with proper storage (cool, out of direct sunlight) , refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Populus balsamifera flower extract (and) Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil
The resin produced by the Poplar for protection in winter, loaded with an abundance of healing goodness, is ripe for picking by early spring. Freshly picked buds are gently macerated in oil to produce “Balm of Gilead”. Due to its anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties it is excellent for the following external uses: muscle aches and joint pains, burns, minor cuts, eczema, psoriasis, impetigo, athlete’s foot, respiratory congestion and hemorrhoids. It is very effective in pain relief blends. Use full strength or combine with other base oils such as Borage, Calophyllum, Evening Primrose, Neem, and Rosa Mosqueta. Makes an excellent ointment base. May be customized with essential oils such as Black Poplar, Plai, Goldenrod, Lavender, Marjoram and Tea Tree.
Contraindicated in those with an allergy to aspirin, as it contains salicylates.
Shelf Life: 2 years if stored properly, cool with no air in the bottle
INCI Nomenclature: Adansonia digitata (baobab) seed oil
African Baobab trees are dubbed the ‘Tree of Life’ and are known for their exceptional long life. Some trees been known to live up to 500-600 years. Some of the biggest trees, with girths measuring over 43 meters, are considered to be over 2500 years old. Baobab Oil is cold pressed from the seed of the fruit which is high in vitamins A, D, E and F (essential fatty acids). Baobab helps to preserve skin elasticity and aids in preventing stretch marks. It encourages regeneration of skin cells without clogging pores. It softens wrinkles, diminishes blemishes and scars, and calms irritated, sun damaged skin. Baobab Oil is suitable for all skin types and is great as a face moisturizer and body massage oil. As a body moisturizer, wet hands with water add a few drops of Baobab Oil then rub into the skin on arms and legs. Add a few drops to your regular face and body creams. For strengthening damaged hair and moisturizing dry hair, add a few drops into your conditioner.
Shelf life: 1 -2 years, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Ribes nigrum (blackcurrant) seed oil
Cold pressed from the seeds, Black Currant Seed Oil contains 6-9% gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). The oil is added to skin preparations and cosmetics. It is often combined with vitamin E to prevent oxidation. It is best added to blends with other oils to enrich them. Black Currant is noted for its anti-ageing, moisturizing and restructuring properties as high GLA oils contribute to skin elasticity.
Shelf Life: 6 months – 1 year, refrigeration is highly recommended NOTE: All GLA rich oils are unstable and it is important to keep them refrigerated. It is also important to keep as much oxygen out of the bottle as possible. Rebottle into smaller sizes as the oil is used.
INCI Nomenclature: Borago officinalis (borage) seed oil
Cold pressed from the seeds, Borage Seed Oil is rich in GLA. It is used in cosmetics for its soothing and moisturizing properties for dry and sensitive skin. Because of its regenerative and firming properties, it is used in anti-ageing and wrinkle formulas to fight dehydration and loss of skin elasticity. It gives rich body to nutritive and night creams. Use a small percentage of a blend.
Shelf Life: 6 months- 1 year, refrigeration is recommended
NOTE: All GLA rich oils are unstable and it is important to keep them refrigerated. It is also important to keep as much oxygen out of the bottle as possible. Rebottle into smaller sizes as the oil is used.
Also known as Foraha, Tamanu
INCI Nomenclature: Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil
Calophyllum has a long history of use with indigenous peoples in many countries. It is found in Madagascar, South Africa, Southeast Asia, India and Sri Lanka. The tree bears a bright green fruit that produces a nut used for oil production. When collected, the seeds are dried and fermented for 1-2 months. As they dry and ferment, the nuts develop a sticky brown oil that is pressed to produce the greenish brown oil. The healing properties of Calophyllum have been studied since the 1920s. Applied to wounds, it possesses the capacity to promote the formation of new tissue. This process of forming new tissue is known as cicatrisation. Apply liberally to cuts, scrapes, burns, insect bites/stings, abrasions, acne/acne scars, psoriasis, sunburns, anal fissures, diabetic sores, dry or scaly skin, blisters, eczema, abscesses, boils, infected skin conditions and herpes sores. Calophyllum has been used to relieve neuralgia, rheumatism and sciatica. Polynesian women massage it onto babies to prevent diaper rash and skin eruptions. It also demonstrates significant antimicrobial activity and contains several bactericide/fungicide agents. It can be applied undiluted to the skin or used in skin healing blends. We have had experience with a blend 60/40 Calophyllum-Ravintsara for
shingles pain. A truly remarkable, healing oil for every first aid kit! For those with allergies, Calophyllum is considered a nut oil.
Shelf Life: 6-9 months, refrigerate and warm bottle gently to liquefy
INCI Nomenclature: Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil (and) Calendula officinalis flower extract
Calendula Oil is an infused or macerated herbal oil that is widely known for its healing properties for slow healing wounds, bed sores, cuts and burns. It is astringent and has a tightening effect on the skin. It can be used on broken capillaries, varicose veins, bruises and eczema. It has traditional uses for healing babies’ bottoms. Use as a compress for chapped and dry skin. For bruising and contusions, mix 50/50 with St. John’s Wort Oil. Calendula Oil will make an excellent base for healing salves and ointments. The addition of Calendula CO2 extract and healing essential oils make this infused oil a power healer.
Shelf Life: 9 months – 1 year, refrigeration recommended
Camellia japonica, Camellia oleifera, Camellia sinensis
INCI Nomenclature: Camellia sinensis (camellia) seed oil
Created via cold-pressing of the seeds, Camellia Oil comes from China or Japan and has been used for the care of hair, scalp, and skin. Do not confuse Camellia Seed Oil with Camelina Oil, which is from the cabbage family. Camellia Oil can be safely used in most cosmetic applications for mature, damaged, dry skin. It makes a superb facial massage oil used neat and a body massage oil blended with Sweet Almond or Apricot Kernel Oil. Japanese women are renowned for their beautiful hair due to Camellia Oil treatments.
Shelf Life: 2 years, refrigeration recommended
CARROT OIL (Infused Carrot Oil)
Also known as Helio Carrot Oil or Carrot Tissue Oil
INCI Nomenclature: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil and Beta Carotene
In aromatherapy circles, this oil is often misunderstood and mistaken for Carrot Seed essential oil. We have seen the two oils confused in many reputable aromatherapy books. Essential oil of Carrot Seed is steam distilled, volatile, and clear in colour. Infused Carrot Oil can be sold claiming to be the maceration of Wild Carrot Root pulp in a vegetable oil such as Sunflower, Soy, or Hazelnut. Wild Carrot does not carry the orange pigments found in oil from beta-carotene maceration. Our Infused Carrot Oil is made from active carotenoid compounds from carrot source added to sunflower oil. Beta-carotene is an organic compound (terpenoid), a red-orange pigment abundant in plants and fruits. As a carotene with β-rings at both ends, it is the most common form of carotene. It is a precursor (inactive form) of vitamin A. It is deeply colored and as a hydrocarbon lacking functional groups, it is very lipophilic. Infused Carrot Oil is useful in anti-ageing formulas and as an addition to sun creams and after sun lotions. Do not use full strength because of the intense colour, but rather add it up to 15% in blends.
Shelf Life: 6 months – 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil
Castor Oil is obtained by cold pressing the seeds of the plant that have been sun dried. It is not to be confused with Turkey Red Oil or Sulfated Castor Oil (which is very dark in orange in colour). Castor Oil has a long history of use dating back to early Egyptian and Roman cultures. It is very thick and viscous which makes it useful in conditions where moisture needs to be locked in or out. It is too thick to be used as a carrier oil for massage but has reported uses in topical treatments for liver spots, age spots and warts. We have reported success from customers who used Castor Oil to get rid of skin tags (it takes consistent use for a few months). Castor has been indicated for use in cases of acnes, ezema, psoriasis and rashes as well. A book about the Vermont style of folk medicine by D.C. Jarvis (published in 1958) lists numerous conditions that respond well to the topical application of Castor Oil including: irritation of the conjunctiva of the eye, promoting healing of the umbilicus in a newborn and increasing milk flow in lactating women when applied to the breasts. Castor Oil can be applied directly to sore, irritated, or inflamed nipples. Edgar Cayce also lists 30 treatments with Castor Oil. It has been reported to be effective for muscle and back pain, inflammation, abscesses, constipation, painful periods, pain and swelling for varicose veins and lumpy painful breasts from cystic breast disease. Add Castor up to 10% in blends or use full strength on skin tags and in castor oil packs.
Castor Oil Pack Instructions (excerpted from The Oil That Heals by William A. McGarey, M.D.)
Prepare a flannel cloth which is two or three thicknesses when folded and which measures about eight inches in width and ten to twelve inches in length after it is folded. This is the size needed for abdominal application - other areas may need a different size pack as seems applicable. Pour castor oil into a pan and soak the cloth in the oil. Then wring out the cloth so that it is wet but not drippy with the castor oil (or simply pour castor oil onto the pack so it is soaked). Apply the cloth to the area that needs treatment. Most often, the pack should be placed so it covers the area of the liver. Protection against soiling bed clothing can be made by putting a sheet underneath the body. Then a plastic covering should be applied over the soaked flannel cloth. On top of the plastic, place a heating pad and turn it up to "medium" to begin, then to "high" if the body tolerates it. It helps to wrap a large towel around the body to hold the pack snugly in place, using large safety pins on the towel. The pack should remain in place between an hour to an hour and a half. The skin can be cleansed afterwards, if desired, by using water which is prepared as follows: to a quart of water, add two teaspoons of baking soda. Use this to cleanse the abdomen. Keep the flannel pack wrapped in plastic for future use. It need not be discarded after one application, but can usually be used many times.
Other interesting references to Castor Oil treatments can be found in: Take Charge of Your Body by Dr. Carolyn DeMarco and Wise Woman Herbal for the Childbearing Year by Susun Weed
Shelf Life: Stable 2 years
INCI Nomenclature: Prunus avium (sweet cherry) seed oil
Cherry Kernel Oil is made by pressing of the seeds/kernels. It contains natural antioxidants, alpha, delta and gamma tocopherols plus vitamins A & E. It also contains a polyunsaturated fatty acid called Eleostearic that prevents UV absorption. The taste and smell of the refined oil has no resemblance to the actual fruit. Cherry Kernel Oil is used in skin care products and soap making. It can be used as a light, moisturizing oil for lip balms, body butters, bath or massage oils as well as soaps and shampoos. It is used in aromatherapy as a penetrating base oil. There has been some research and references to Cherry Kernel Oil having limited sunscreen properties. It has similar properties to Sweet Almond Oil but is not considered a nut oil.
Shelf Life: 6 months - I year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter
Cocoa Butter is the natural cream coloured vegetable fat extracted from cocoa beans during the process of separating the powder and liquor from the bean. Natural Cocoa Butter has a characteristic sweet cocoa aroma and is one of the most stable fats known. Some cocoa butters are deodorized and decoloured, making them less fragrant for cosmetic preparations, but the removing of the fragrance and colour is one more refining process. It has been used to heal and moisturize skin that has been exposed to the elements. It also helps reduce the formation of stretch marks during pregnancy by keeping the skin supple. It makes a wonderful ingredient in lotion bars, lip balms, body butters and soaps. It contains natural antioxidants that prevent rancidity, and has an extremely long shelf life.
Shelf Life: 2-5 years under proper storage conditions (cool and out of direct sunlight)
Cocos nucifera
INCI Nomenclature: Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Fractionated Coconut Oil contains only the medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) of coconut oil, making it a liquid and very stable oil. It is produced through the hydrolysis of coconut oil and is then fractionated by steam distillation. Fractionated Coconut Oil has an indefinite shelf life and is a light, non-greasy, non-staining, liquid oil. It is a good choice for use in massage, skin care and soap formulations. It can be included in creams, lotions, bath oils, bath salts and soap. It is a good substitute for Sweet Almond Oil if you are worried about rancidity or a short shelf life. It washes off massage tables easily and does not impart an odour to linens. Fractionated Coconut is highly refined oil and does not contain the same properties as the natural, solid coconut butter.
Shelf Life: Very Stable
INCI Nomenclature: Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil
Cold pressed from the seeds, Evening Primrose Oil is noted as a rich source of GLA. GLA rich oils are used for dry skin conditions, eczema, psoriasis and ageing skin. Unrefined Evening Primrose has not been filtered and retains its characteristic green colour. Unrefined oils often carry a stronger fragrance than its refined counterpart, but is deemed to be more nourishing to the skin.
Shelf Life: Unstable, refrigeration highly recommended
NOTE: All GLA rich oils are unstable and it is important to keep them refrigerated. It is also important to keep as much oxygen out of the bottle as possible. Rebottle into smaller sizes as the oil is used.
INCI Nomenclature: Vitus vinifera (grape) seed oil
Grapeseed Oil is obtained from the cold pressing of the organic seed. It is a very popular oil with massage therapists as it is light, has a satin finish, odourless, easily absorbed into the skin, non-toxic, hypoallergenic and great for all skin types. It is excellent added to a bath for eczema. Not recommended for face oils.
Shelf Life: Relatively stable, 6 months - 1 year
INCI Nomenclature: Corylus avellana (hazel) seed oil
Hazelnut Oil is prepared by cold-pressing of the nuts. Slightly astringent, it is used for oily or acneic skin. It is also stimulating to the circulation. Reported in studies to have sun-filtering properties, Hazelnut oil is an excellent choice for cosmetic preparations and sun lotions. Having a light texture it is easily absorbed into the skin and often used by estheticians for facial massage. It diffuses better than Sweet Almond Oil and penetrates the skin without leaving a greasy film. It prevents dehydration of the skin and leaves it feeling soft and smooth. Do not use in full strength, but combine with an oil like Sweet Almond. For an outstanding after sun oil, combine with Sesame Seed Oil and Calendula Infused Oil.
Shelf Life: 6 months – 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Cannabis sativa oil
Made from the cold-pressing of the seeds, Hemp Seed Oil has similar properties to Olive Oil for topical use. Stronger colours and odours are normal. It is recommended to blend it with a lighter oil such as Sweet Almond Oil or Apricot Kernel Oil. Hemp Seed Oil combined with Jojoba is used to restore dry, damaged and/or permed hair. It can be massaged into the nail bed for stronger and faster growing nails. Its rejuvenating and moisturizing nature helps eczema, psoriasis and dry skin. Hemp also fights skin inflammations and lesions.
Shelf Life: 6 months – 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil
Despite its appearance, Jojoba is not actually an oil but a liquid waxy esters. Jojoba does not contain triglycerides, which are a type of fat that break down in vegetable oils and turns rancid. This absence makes Jojoba extremely stable and it will last for years with an indefinite shelf life. Unlike vegetable oils, heating Jojoba will not damage it either. It is non-allergenic and non- comedogenic (non-pore clogging). Our sebaceous glands produce sebum, which is composed primarily of esters that are molecularly comparable to Jojoba. It will not stain and washes easily out of natural fabrics with just hot water and detergent.
Contrary to the belief that Jojoba is too expensive to use as a massage oil, those who use it in their practice find it very affordable due to the small amount needed. A therapist giving 30-35 massages a week customarily uses three to four gallons per year. Hot stone modalities will use more. (NOTE: Jojoba can withstand heating and reheating, which makes it ideal for hot stone therapy.)
Jojoba softens and conditions skin. It is excellent used as a body moisturizer on slightly damp skin after showering. As it only has an SPF of 2-4 so it is not recommended as a sunscreen alternative, but it can be applied to the skin before applying sunscreen to maintain skin health while in the sun. Jojoba is used to relieve the symptoms of psoriasis. It conditions the scalp, hair and also relieves cradle cap. Jojoba is excellent for facial massage, removing makeup and as an ingredient in facial masks to improve the flow of nutrients into the skin. Use after sugaring or waxing to soothe and condition the skin.
Jojoba contains a natural anti-inflammatory called myristic acid which is useful in formulations for arthritis and rheumatism.
Shelf Life: Stable – long shelf life, refrigeration not required
INCI Nomenclature: Aleurites moluccana (kukui) seed oil
Kukui is the official state tree of Hawaii. It is an excellent skin penetrating oil that soothes and softens sunburns and irritations. It is a good choice for babies and children. Ranking as one of the best polyunsaturated oils, it is used for treating superficial burns, chapped skin and minor skin abrasions. It produces good results in treating psoriasis, eczema and helping to relieve long-term hydro-cortisone use. Kukui is used for dry, irritated skin and skin irritated by radiation in cancer treatments. It makes an excellent massage oil for mature, ageing skin.
Shelf Life: 6 months – 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Macadamia ternifolia (macadamia) seed oil
Macadamia Nut Oil is a low odour superior massage oil. It penetrates rapidly but still provides a good slip factor. It is similar in composition to human sebum and contains a high content of palmitoleic acid which is vital to delaying skin and cell ageing. This make it excellent in menopausal skin formulas. It is a stable, monounsaturated oil that is nourishing and provides restructuring properties while protecting cell lipids from rancidity or peroxidation.
Shelf Life: 1 year
INCI Nomenclature: Mangifera indica (mago) seed butter
Mango Butter is obtained from the kernels of the mango tree. It has a high content of stearic acid, making it similar to cocoa butter, but slightly softer. Mango Butter has good emolliency and lends protection against the sun. It is said to prevent drying of the skin and formation of wrinkles. Mango butter also reduces degeneration of skin cells and restores elasticity, thus useful for treating burns and stretch marks. Mango butter's hardness makes it a great butter for stick formulations such as lip balm and lotion bars. It can be used "as is" to provide relief from the dryness of eczema and psoriasis.
Shelf Life: 2 years if stored properly (cool and out of direct sunlight)
INCI Nomenclature: Sclerocarya birrea (marula) kernel oil
Marula is considered a miracle oil in Africa. The Marula nuts are gathered by hand and the kernels are placed into a pressing machine. No solvents are used in the process. It is rich in antioxidants and oleic acid, is stable and an excellent choice for aromatherapy and cosmetic purposes. Marula Oil is a good choice for inclusion in formulations for dry skin. It absorbs quickly, hydrates the skin, heals skin tissue, reduces redness, reduces trans-epidermal water loss, increases the smoothness of skin and conditions the hair. It is also a stable, super-fatting oil for soap.
Our Marula Oil supports community-based projects in South Africa where people living in rural areas collect and cold press the seeds. It helps local communities maintain the plants that grow locally and provides valuable income.
Shelf Life: 6 months – 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Azadirachta indica seed oil
Many Indian legends are associated with the Neem tree, considered sacred since ancient times. Although it has been attributed with miracle wonder powers, its over promotion should not discourage you from using it. Be sure to purchase the oil pressed from the seed, not extracted from the leaves. It is a dark, thick oil, with a distinctive odour. It has strong antimicrobial properties, making it useful combined with essential oils for cuts, scrapes and wounds. It is antifungal and used for treating athlete’s foot. It seems useful in cases where skin problems do not respond to other treatments, such as eczema, psoriasis and burns. Heat gently in a hot water bath to liquefy.
Shelf Life: 6 months – 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Rubus idaeus (red raspberry) seed oil
Red Raspberry Seed Oil possesses an exceptionally high proportion of alpha and gamma tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. It offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays. The SPF of Red Raspberry Seed Oil has been found to be equal to that of titanium dioxide and has been rated to have an SPF as high as 28-50 (Oomah et. al. 2000). Note: you cannot claim SPF properties in a skin care product without testing and a license to do so, this is for informational purposes only. It has more pronounced anti-inflammatory properties than avocado, grapeseed, hazelnut and wheatgerm oils and may prove to be most effective oil to use in the treatment of eczema, psoriasis and other skin conditions (Oomah et al 2000). Our experience with oily and acneic skin has been very good. It has a wonderful softening and conditioning effect on the skin.
Shelf Life: 6 months- 2 years, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Oryza sativa (rice bran) oil
Rice Bran Oil is an inexpensive oil rich in antioxidants that make it perfect for dry, flaky, sensitive, mature and delicate skin. It contains gamma-oryzanol, a compound that shows certain UV protection. It is easily absorbed and does not leave a sticky film on the skin. Its mild nature makes it useful for application around the eye in cases of puffy eyes with dark circles. It is an economical oil useful for massage and face and body work. Rice
Bran Oil is an excellent choice for babies and children, especially those with nut allergies.
Shelf Life: 6 months- 1 year, refrigeration recommended
Also known as Rosa Mosqueta, Rosa Rubiginosa
INCI Nomenclature: Rosa canina (rosehip seed) oil
Rosehip Seed Oil is well known for its ability to regenerate tissue, improve skin texture and reduce scars of all types (if applied daily over time). It is used in formulations for surgical scars, burns and marks. It is also one of the best oils for wrinkles and ageing skin, being moisturizing and hydrating. Although it is heavy for massage, it shines in rich nutritive crèmes, lotions and facial oils. You can use it full strength or as little as 10% in a blend successfully. Do not use Rosehip Seed Oil in acneic conditions.
Shelf Life: 6 months, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil
Sesame Seed Oil is made by pressing of the seeds. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins A and E and proteins, making an excellent massage oil and good moisturizer for normal to dry skin. It has a low natural SPF, so a great addition to sun oils. Use up to 20% in massage blends.
Shelf Life: 6 months- 1 year, refrigeration is recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) fruit
Shea Butter is becoming one of the most popular and well-known cosmetic products available. African healers have used Shea Butter for thousands of years as the ideal treatment for dry or ageing skin. Its high content of non-saponifiables and unique fatty acid profile gives Shea Butter the ability to moisturize and retain the elasticity of the skin. Shea Butter also helps to protect the skin against the damaging effects of the sun while repairing cellular degeneration. Shea Butter can be used "as is" or in any proportion in formulations for moisturizing the skin or hair. It soothes sun-soaked skin and is known to provide UV Protection. It heals cracks on heels & hands and relieves dry, itchy & scaly skin. Shea stimulates skin renewal and minimizes stretch marks. It promotes cell regeneration, increases circulation and reduces fine lines.
True Essence Shea Butter comes from a village in Ghana where the Tapko Widow’s Group harvests the shea nuts and processes them into raw butter using traditional methods that have been handed down over centuries. They are paid a premium price with no bargaining such that they are often paid higher than their asking price (more than triple what they would get at the local market). The profits from the sale of Shea Butter are donated to their microcredit project, helping them to start businesses of their own. This Shea Butter comes from an area where there are no chemicals or additives. The group is working toward funding for organic certification. In the last 4 years the women have been able to send their children to school and can afford to pay for school supplies, uniforms and school fees. They are now able to go to the medical clinic when they are sick and need medical attention. The women and children also eat a more nutritious diet by being able to afford meat and vegetables at the local market when their own crops fail.
Melting Shea Butter: Some instructions on melting Shea Butter say that improper heating can cause the butter to crystallize as it cools. This crystallization can cause lip balms, body butters and other formulations to turn gritty. To avoid this, Shea Butter must be melted and heated to about 175 degrees and kept at that temperature for at least 20 minutes. This will allow the Shea Butter to melt completely so that crystals will not form after it has cooled. In our experience, we melt it at a low temperature, pour and refrigerate. This seems to avoid the graininess that is characteristic of unrefined, unbleached Shea Butter. Natural Shea Butter has a distinctive nutty odour, darker colour and can vary in texture and appearance from batch to batch.
Shelf Life: Stable – 2 years
INCI Nomenclature: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
A nourishing, regenerative, noncomedogenic oil high in oleic and linoleic acids. Contains antioxidants, lecithin, unsaturated fatty acids, Vitamin A, C, D & E, carotenoids and waxes. Light, non-greasy and readily absorbed by the skin, making it ideal for skincare products massage oils. Great for dry, damaged or mature skin.
Shelf Life: Stable – 1 year, refrigeration recommended
INCI Nomenclature: Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil (and) Hypericum perforatum flower extract
St. John’s Wort Oil is an infused or macerated herbal oil that has antiseptic, analgesic, anti-inflammatory and astringent properties, making it an ideal application on wounds where there is nerve and tissue damage. Use it on swellings, bruising, sunburns and other superficial burns. For bruising and contusions mix 50/50 with Calendula Oil. It can heal damaged skin and makes an excellent base for ointments and salves. Caution: photosensitivity when applying before sun exposure.
Shelf Life: 1-2 years, refrigeration recommended
Prunus amygdalus var. dulcis
INCI Nomenclature: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil
Sweet Almond Oil is one of the most widely used oils in aromatherapy and cosmetic formulations. It provides excellent slip and is not easily absorbed making it ideal for massage. It is a heavier oil that is good for massage that takes time. It is useful for dry skin and can relieve itching.
Shelf Life: 6 months – 1 year, refrigeration recommended